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Saturday, October 09, 2010

The Golden Roots Of A Rich Heritage

“Dhaake-r taale, komor dole.. 
Khushi tey naache mon.. 
Aaj baajaa kashor, jamaa aason.. 
Thaakbe Maa aar koto khon..”

Nothing is indispensable  in  this world.  But for the Bengalis, especially the Kolkatans, some things actually are indispensable. Let me make an attempt at listing a few such things without which Kolkata wouldn’t be Kolkata anymore.


1) Ilish Maach – You can take Ilish maach out of Kolkata but  you  definitely cannot  take  Kolkata out  of an Ilish maach. They say, people eat to live but Kolkatans and their passion for food can prompt you to say that they sometimes live to eat.


2) Music – Be it the good old Rabindra Sangeet or the hip hop of Akon, the soulful voice of Kishore  or the “Piya Tu” of R D Burman, Kolkata swings and swerves to any musical note. So much is the addiction to music that they literally eat, drink and sleep music.

  
3) Rossogollas / Mishti Doi –  good meal followed by a luscious rossogolla and a “bhaad full of mishti doi” means heaven to a Bengali. Bengalis and sweets, are made for each other.

4) Adda, better known as Rock-er-Adda – Whatever be the age - six or sixty, people in Kolkata will be found sitting in  front of  a tea shop like  a panel of  jury, passing their  remarks  and  giving expert  opinion on  all topics – hot or cold,  past or  present - right from the post mortem of  a cricket match to who  should be elected the next Prime Minister.


5) Durga Puja – A festival that the Bengalis take a lot of pride in, and if a festival could bring  them  all the 
above mentioned indispensable essentials together, it has to be Durga Puja. A reason for joy in the City of Joy. It will not be wrong if one says that Durga Puja is much more than just a festival.


Durga Puja in Kolkata is probably as old as the word itself but the shine and the lustre of the whole event hasn’t dropped  a shade for decades now. It is still celebrated with a lot of pomp and show, in fact, it  increases every passing year. While Kolkata boasts of staging more than a thousand pandals every year, one would like to trace the roots of this grand occasion, or maybe go one step backward to find out the seed of  this celebration in the City of Joy.




The Pujas in Kolkata are centuries old  and  the oldest of them all is celebrated at Barisha by the Roy Chowdhuri family. It started way back in  the year 1610 and is considered  to be a  prized  possession of the Kolkatans now. Sabarna Roy Chowdhuri’s family has left no stone unturned in continuing the family’s legacy. Four centuries and still counting, this  Puja  still draws a massive crowd. Devarshi  Roy Chowdhuri along  with the other members of this royal family has made sure that the Puja doesn’t lack any glitter.


The glorious history of Durga Puja doesn’t stop here  though. Be  it  the Chowdhuri  Bari  Puja  in  Barisha  or the Rajbari of  Shobha Bazar,  the Haldar Bari or the grand Mallick Bari in central Kolkata, one thing  common  in  all these Pujas  is that they  have always been  a  kingly  affair.  Their contribution to the Puja  history has provided people the vision of how to celebrate the Pujas with pomp and glory. The  fact  that  these  households have survived the test of time certainly speaks volumes about the rich culture and heritage of not just Bengal, but the whole of India.


The Shobha Bazar Rajbari began celebrating Durga Puja  in the year 1757 which  was organized by Raja Nabakrishna Deb in the honour of Lord Clive. It would be wrong to deny that the British officers during their rule in  India  played  a  pivotal  role  in  promoting  the  Hindu  mega  festival  by  arranging  huge  fairs  and  decorations during this festive period.


The big wigs in the field of business and the renowned Zamindars from different parts of Kolkata joined the gala. The Mallick Bari, Haldar Bari, the Puja organized by the Ray Bahadurs,  etc. are names  which will remain etched in  the hearts and minds of the people forever. The 237 year old Dutta Bari Puja at  Baranagar  in  Kolkata still draws  a lot  of attention. All these Pujas  have  one thing  in common –  although  old, they still  retain  the vigour that they had, when they started off.



These Pujas haven’t been mere festive occasions.  Durga Puja means a lot to every Hindu and not just to a Bengali. It is a reason to smile for all those girls who shop for their wedding during this once a year extravaganza. It is a reason to smile for all those kids who crave to be pampered at their maternals’. It is a reason to smile for all those traders who expect an incredible rise in their respective businesses. It is that time of the year when the streets are thronged by the masses.


Ironically, there’s a sad angle to this happy story. While one rejoices the fact that Kolkata boasts of such  deep roots while staging a Durga Puja, nobody bothers to enlighten the fact that these are the Pujas which sparked off a  heritage and culture that the entire nation takes pride in. The Roy Chowdhuri Bari Puja at Barisha is the stepping stone to the grandeur that we witness today in many pandals across the nation. The credit doesn’t only lie in the fact that it is the oldest. The actual credit goes to them for having started off a  tradition which is now being  followed  by  countless  Indians,  across  many  cities,  states  and  nations  as  well. Countries like Nepal, Bangladesh, Singapore, Australia, Germany, England and the United States  observe this festival with a lot of pomp. The seed which was sown at a small place like Barisha has now spread its branches across the seas and that is where the old Pujas of Kolkata emerge as the true champions.


India and not just Bengal, is  known for its riches, its beautiful heritage and culture. Hundreds  of pandals might mushroom up every year, there might  be  a new Puja theme  in Kolkata every year, but nothing can snatch the beauty of watching a complete family, organizing a  grand  Puja  within the walls of their own home. The charm hasn’t gone missing yet and one doubt  whether it would ever, since  it has stood  the biggest test  of it  all  - the test of time. All this only re-instills our faith in the age old saying, “Old is Gold”.


On that note I cannot fail to mention that what Amitabh Bachchan is to Indian cinema, what Sachin Tendulkar is to Indian cricket, what shapes are to geometry, what x is to algebra, Durga Puja is to Kolkata and its people.


This article was a special feature on the history of Durga Puja in Kolkata and was published in P3.. Not Just Page 3, in the year 2010.

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